Impressions of Ecuador

I have been in Ecuador for almost 8 months now, and during this time, I've tried hard to get to know people and soak up the culture, absorbing all that is wonderful about Ecuador.  But some things, as in any culture, are not so wonderful.  Today, I thought I'd give you more of an inside glimpse into the Ecuador that I have witnessed so far.

Things I Love about Ecuador:

Ecuadorians

Ecuadorians are so kind and they love to laugh.  They also love to have a good time.  One day, I'm sitting alone in the living room of my host family's house during our August training back in Quito, and there's a knock at the door.  I open it to 18 people who walk in with a giant cake, a gallon of Fanta and bags of puffed cheetos. Turns out, this day is Santa Rosa and that means a party for all people named Rosa.  The grandmother of my family is named Rosa and its a surprise for her.  Luckily, my family came home with her a few minutes later and the party began.  You have to love a country that has built in so many celebrations!

Greetings
"Hola mi amor"... "mi veci"... "mi hija"... "mi corazón".  These are the terms of endearment people use to greet each other.  "Hello my love", "my neighbor", "my daughter", "my heart" - I've heard them all from friends, and strangers alike, even people younger than I.  What's not to like about a greeting that makes you feel so loved?

Cheap Produce
I stop at a vegetable stand in the market to buy a head of broccoli.  But then I see the tomatoes and buy 3.  The swiss chard looks really fresh, so I get a handful of stalks.  And an eggplant, a bag of peas, a handful of radishes, and lettuce for a salad.  Finally, red beets- so tempting, I take three of those too.  The saleslady throws in a "yapa" of cilantro- an extra for free.  Perfect.  How much?  $3.20.

Cheap Lunches

I love that every town is filled with “Almuerzo” places. This is simply a place that offers a set lunch for a set price- usually $2.00.  With your meal, you receive the soup of the day, and a plate full of meat, rice, potatoes, and if you’re lucky, some vegetables, a salad or fruit.  Fresh juice is always included as well.  The soup and meat choice is listed on the board out front and it’s easy to walk down the street and pick the place that serves what you desire. You sit down. The food is delivered immediately.  20-30 minutes later, you pay when you leave.  It’s very simple, and delicious!

Ecuadorians are Connected to their Food Source
Walk down the street and look into any restaurant and it is common to see a whole pig roasting or splayed out for carving, and whole chickens or cuys (guinea pig) on a spit.  Ecuadorians know where their meat comes from (because it was probably killed behind the house that morning), and they know about growing produce for their families.  A large part of the population own or work on small farms, or are involved in the distribution of food.  Although Ecuador doesn't have "third world chicken buses", I did spot a box of chicks getting brought home from the market.

Ecuadorians are Politically Active
Everybody knows the history of their country and they keep themselves informed about current politics, and policies of their government at all levels.  And they have an opinion about it all, too.  The idea that it is their responsibility to be involved in their country is inbred since they are little. This most definitely includes women.  42% of Ecuador's Parliament is made up of women (this ranks 9th in the world).  I've sat through several heated discussions involving both men and women regarding the politics of their country and abroad.  I think it is great that they are so invested.

Ecuadorians are Hard Workers

They hustle for your money and usually service in stores or restaurants is very quick.  They are also entrepreneurial, designing creative ways to make money.  For example, a woman who needs to make a living stands on the street corner every morning with a juice press, bags and bags of fresh oranges and two baby carriages.  I watch her juggle the babies, and the oranges as she presses fresh juice into bottles and seals them with a twist.  I buy one for $1.00. 

Ecuadorians are Resourceful
If they have a task to do, they do it.  This man needs to knock down the building.  So he and his friend are taking it down- with sledge hammers and mallets- brick by brick.  I've spoken in other posts about the lack of school resources.  You'd be amazed at what people create out of cardboard boxes, plastic bottles and colored foam.

Things Get Done with a Willing Workforce
I walk past a dirt side street everyday.  One day I noticed some men kneeling down and leveling parts of it with piles of dirt and hand shovels.  The next day, I saw several stacks of pavers on pallets, obviously having just been delivered.  When I looked at the far end of the street, I noticed several men kneeling down, placing brick by brick.  In the United States, if we want to build a road, we have to request several designs, put out a contract, hire the lowest bidder, and wait several months before paying thousands of dollars for the heavy equipment and crew to build the road.

In Ecuador, they get some brick pavers and probably some day labors, and they build the road.

When I came back the next day, the road was done and cars were driving on it.  Many roads in town have been built by hand either with bricks like these, or small river rock.  The roads seem to be durable, and are easy to fix.  And they don't take forever to build.

Agreed, there is a problem with underemployment in this country where educated people trained for careers can't find work and have to resort to other jobs to make a living.  To build this road, I don’t know what the laborers were paid, but I bet they were happy for the work.

Things Not to Like About Ecuador:

Garbage
Ecuador does have systems to collect and handle their solid waste.  In the cities, there are garbage cans and people do use them.  But I also see a lot of people just throw their waste on the ground.  In every ditch, every empty lot, and every canyon, there is so much plastic garbage: wrappers, take-away food containers, bottles, etc.  I step over it all on my walks around town.  In such a beautiful country, it makes me sad to see so much garbage strewn across the ground in every direction.

Dog Poop
There isn’t a culture of picking up your dog poop here.  Large piles decorate the sidewalk and you have to stay diligent when you walk down the street.  Since I live in the outskirts of the city, cow patties are also common to find on the sidewalk. 

Stray Dogs

There is a lot of dogs wandering the streets.  Some may have owners, but that's a loose interpretation.  When they travel in packs, they tend to get pretty aggressive.  One day I was waiting for a bus in a small town and I counted 11 stray dogs on the corner with me.  The government, with the help of Vet Students, is trying to spay or neuter these dogs, but it's a slow process. 

Cheek-to-Cheek Greetings 

If done properly, you should only be touching cheeks.  But there are a lot of men who love to plant a slobbery wet-one right on your face.  Also, inevitably throughout the day you come upon someone who has applied a little too much cologne or perfume so you end up smelling like them all day too.  It's really too much and its hard to avoid.

Sharing Glasses

At a party, it's very common to serve a bottle of beer (or something stronger) to all your guests with only one glass.  The beverage is poured, the first person downs the drink, and passes the cup to the next person for a refill.  I always try to get the first drink so I don't have to share the glass.

Starch, Starch, Fat, and More Starch
Mountains of rice, piles of potatoes, and corn in every variation is served at every meal in the Sierra Region.  And don't forget the bread rolls and the banana for dessert.  I like the food here, but I really search out opportunities to eat something with a different flavor.  It is possible to find some Columbian and Venezuelan restaurants, but they're only open for dinner.  Chinese is also common here, but unfortunately, it's heavy on rice and salt.  And of course, "American food" is a favorite.  If I wanted to fill up on french fries, hot dogs, fried chicken, pizza or hamburgers, then there is plenty of selection on every corner.


Things That Are Just Hard:

Differences in Communication Styles

Every culture has their own way of interacting.  For me, one the hardest (and most exhausting) things about living in another country is trying to navigate their different styles of communication, while also trying to remember how to speak in their language.  I've learned that my direct, sometimes zealous, Type A approach to communication and solving problems is usually not successful in Ecuador, so interacting with people at work and home has sometimes been a challenge.  From what I've ascertained so far, we have very different ways to give greetings and say goodbyes, give opinions, show appreciation, ask questions, dispense information, provide answers, express concerns, solve problems, ask for favors, convince someone to do something, respond to requests, decline an invitation, and give and receive gifts.  That's a lot to be aware of in every interaction.  Simply walking into a room when you're in a hurry and giving a quick "Hello" to a group of people is a major no-no.  If you don't take the time to greet everyone individually (yes, even in a very large group), you are seen as rude.  I know I've made some people mad or hurt some feelings.  Those who have had some connection with Americans before tend to be a little forgiving when I make a faux pax.  Navigating this path will definitely be a work in progress for me throughout my service.

Looking for My People
As I'm working within the Peace Corps, my school, my home, the University, my Spanish classes, my art classes and my inter-cambios, I'm meeting a lot of people from both the US and Ecuador.  But in all my interactions here in Ibarra, I haven't yet found "my people".  That's hard.  I'm living a fun adventure, but sometimes, it's a little lonely.  I'm working on getting used to that, too.

In my next post, I'll give you some more insight into living at the Equator!
Stay Tuned!

Ibarra

After spending a couple of weeks away this summer, I came back to my city of Ibarra with fresh eyes.  It really is a beautiful city, in a beautiful setting.  For this post, I thought I'd share a little of it with you. 

The San Miguel Arcangel
overlooks and protects the city.

Ibarra is a colonial city (population 140,000) located in the northern part of Ecuador in the Province of Imbabura.  It is set in a bowl at 7,300 feet surrounded by mountains and volcanos, and has easy access to the coast toward the west, the Orient/ Rainforest to the east and the Columbian border to the north.  Ibarra was founded in 1606 but almost completely destroyed in an 1868 earthquake.  Today, its historical architecture and culture are alive and well, rich with Spanish influence.  Although primarily an agricultural centerpoint, Ibarra does have two universities and industries related to textiles and technology.  Ibarra is considered one of the most diverse cities in Ecuador with large populations of Spanish Mestizo, a variety of autonomous Indigenous communities, Afro-Ecuadorians and a hearty flow of Venezuelans and Columbians who are migrating into Ecuador from their countries to the north.  Ibarra is well known for its "tranquilo" (or relaxing) lifestyle.  Some of this can be attributed to its favorable climate with year around temperatures between 45-85 degrees every day of the year.  Because it is located on the Equator it only has two seasons: wet and dry.  

The view from the Arcangel

The pride of Ibarra is beautiful Lago Yahuarcocha.  A bicycle and running track encircles this lake 

and a famous race car track flanks one of its sides. 

Rent a paddle boat or a kayak
for the afternoon! 

The plazas are my favorite part of Ibarra.  They are always adorned with beautiful flowers, trees, public art and fountains.  In the Latino culture, it is important to take part of your day to relax and spend time with family or friends.  Often, the parks and plazas are where they gather.  I sit on the bench to watch old ladies feed the pigeons, or Indigenous women working on their needlepoint, men playing cards, and the vendors selling ice cream, wheelbarrows of grapes, peaches, or a chance to ride on their wooden horse. 

Ofcourse, every plaza is the centerpiece to a beautiful cathedral, and the solitude and cool air 

of these stone buildings makes them inviting to visit on a warm day. 

Ibarra has an historical center with many large colonial buildings.  It is known as the
"White City" for the prominent color of paint on these buildings.  I have heard that historically
the white color was used to keep mosquitos at bay.  Now, it's the trademark of Ibarra. 

  

In a Colonial City, the doors themselves are a work of art.

Sometimes, if you peak inside their courtyards, you will find a school,
a cafe or a cultural museum waiting to be explored. 

 The Streets of Ecuador are also filled with lots of art, and Ibarra is no exception.
Clay people such as these grace the entrance way of most cities in this region.
Their clothes, and their actions are meant to represent the culture of the town.

These clay figures are working with leather and embroidering the beautiful cuffs
and collars of the indigenous women's dresses.  Leatherwork and textiles 
are two major industries in the Imbabura Province. 

Murals and artwork also cover the sides of many buildings and fill the markets.

This is Centro Cultural Daniel Reyes, who was a famous artist in this area.  With his teachings, he left a legacy of artists in a small suburb of Ibarra called San Antonio.  This center, where I take ceramics classes, is also a mainstay of the artisan community. 

One day there was a wood carving
contest in the park.  I watched a
man carve this with a chainsaw
and a chisel.  

Wooden statues - religious or non-religious
are a popular art form here, and artisan
workshops line the streets.

The Cuartel was built as a Military outpost,
but now is an art museum, event center and public library. 

Above ground cemeteries are also a prominent landmark in Ecuador.  Families keep the tombs of loved ones adorned with flowers and photos.  I think their paths are fun to explore. 

             But to me, the best part of Ibarra is its stunning scenery.  Mountains in every direction... 

Volcan Imbabura in the morning sun from my bedroom window

The city below in the setting sun as seen from my house.

Finally, I live on the outskirts of Ibarra and I love 
to explore the nearby fields and pastures.  On my way 
to work, I often see this man, or his wife, walking their
 cow down the sidewalk to a nearby field of grass.

Ibarra... It's a good life for cows, and Peace Corps Volunteers! 

My Peace Corps Summer Work

Ecuadorian teachers receive three weeks of summer vacation.  As you have seen, I took full advantage of this time to meet up with other volunteers and travel around the mountains of Ecuador. However, I have been working a little bit, too.  So far this summer, I taught several workshops at a teacher training conference and for my own teachers at my school.  I also helped out a GLOW/ BRO camp, met the Peace Corps Director and "Reconnected" 

with my teachers and fellow volunteers at our Peace Corps Reconnect Conference. 

GLOW (Girls Leading our World) and BRO (Boys Respecting Others) are gender empowerment initiatives to teach youth around the world about the benefits of gender equity, the importance of challenging gender stereotypes, how to improve self-esteem, and make good choices in their relationships with others.  All Peace Corps Volunteers in Ecuador are encouraged to use this curriculum in our work.  In July, I got my first taste of the program as I helped out at a camp for 30 teenagers who were also 
members of a traditional dance troop.

 The students participated in three days of intensive classes, team building games and even various forms of yoga to learn about their own bodies and consider ways to respect others. 

As a professional dance troop, they are used to choreographing their own routines.  So, as part of the finale for the camp, they were challenged to create an original dance to perform in front of their parents to illustrate what they learned during the three days. 

This is part of what they came up with, first highlighting the traditional ways dances are  choreographed in Ecuador.

Then, some new dancers came out on the stage to challenge the gender norms of their normal routines. 

In this very traditional country, it is quite possible that this is the first time these girls have been able to put on traditionally male costumes and show off their equally capable and energetic dancing abilities.  They had so much fun in this "girls can do it too" dance-off!  

It was such a powerful moment for everyone involved.  

I'm so lucky I got to be a part of this!

In early August, the Director of Peace Corps, Dr. Jody Olsen, came all the way from Washington, DC to visit Ecuador, meet some volunteers and help further the work of Peace Corps Ecuador by meeting with President Lenin Moreno and the Minister of Education.  Jody served as a Peace Corps Volunteer in the 1960's and has worked at many different levels in the organization.  I really enjoyed talking to her over lunch about my service and my adventures!

Here I am with other volunteers and an entourage of Peace Corps 
administration in the famous Indigenous market of Otavalo. 

In August, our group of volunteers came back to Quito to "Reconnect" after 4 1/2 months of service at our new sites.  We had so much fun spending time together again, telling stories - and trying not to compare - our schools, our cities, and our families.  Our group is down to 33, as three of our friends have already chosen to leave service.  

The mural we are posing in front of is our gift to the Peace Corps Training Center.  We are Omnibus 119, or the 119th Peace Corps (Cuerpo de Paz) group to serve in Ecuador.  The mural was designed and mostly painted by two members of our group, Ashley (from Chicago) and Alex (from Texas), but we all added our handprints and names 
around the edge.  

Our Reconnect Conference was also a time for us to share our Peace Corps efforts with 1-2 teachers from our school.  The purpose was to attend workshops together and generally get on the same page regarding the projects that I hope to initiate at my school, as well as the responsibilities the school and staff have to support my service.  I had a great week bonding and planning with Jennifer and Daniela, two English teachers 
from my school in Ibarra. 

For me, the best part about the week was getting to spend time with a new host family!  Blanca and Robert have raised four amazing children (Alex, Aiylin, Emilio and Bianca) and for two weeks, the whole family was so inviting and fun to be with.  We went to the park, played games, read English books (which I translated into Spanish), watched movies and laughed a lot.  As a family, they run a green house and landscaping business.  I look forward to visiting them again and again whenever I adventure down to Quito! 

Finally, to kick off the new school year, I started a series of workshops for my teachers in Ibarra.  Here I am teaching a workshop on strategies for establishing rules and routines while integrating more speaking opportunities in the classroom.  My teachers generally enjoyed the new ideas and are working hard to engage their students more during their classes.  Throughout the year, I'll continue giving various workshops, coaching my teachers on lesson planning strategies, and co-teaching with them in the classroom.  

The work (and play) of a Peace Corps Volunteer is never done!